Janos/J Bar
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Unencumbered by the limitations of a lack of wood, fire restrictions, or marshmallow coals, building a pit fire provides an excuse to build a really big fire. In the darkness of pre-dawn we did just that. Split logs of pine were kindling for the bigger, hotter, and slower burning hunks of mesquite that had been seasoning in our yard for the past year.  As the fire burned hotter and higher we tossed bigger and knottier limbs onto the conflagration and then we stopped. In two hours the wood had burned to coals forming a base of embers 2-3 inches deep over the expanse of fire bricks.  The two roasters, both lined with banana leaves one holding the cochinita pibil, the other the Oaxacan style marinated turkey went  bubbling and  gurgling into the pit as cold metal hit hot coals where they were entombed under 80 pounds of steel plate and a couple hundred pounds of dirt.

 

Then we let go. Seven hours in the pit, roasting, tenderizing, collagen breaking down, fat melting into moist meat, marinades mellowing as the flavors developed. I could taste it all in my mind as we went about the chores of a day that, against forecast, had turned bright and warm. We laughed and joked through our mis en place, Rebecca and her two pit boys as we moved and set tables, prepared our side dishes, adjusted the linen, put out candles and glittering sugared fruit for decoration, placed the wine glasses and silverware and tidied up the house.   

 

By 2:00 we were set for our guests to arrive. By 3:15, having allowed ample time for drinks and to build the tension, we proceeded to exhume. Fortified by shots of the warm Hornitos that we had buried along with the pig and turkey  the dirt was cleared, steel plate swept clean and removed. Through all of this I was watching for tell-tale signs of success or failure. That the Hornitos was warm was the first indication that our fire had endured, but the steel plate was not nearly as hot as I expected. I was nervous when we pulled the roasters and tore aside the top seal of foil we had put in place as one more shield against potential sifting dirt. The banana leaves were hot and fragrant, steam escaped as we pulled the fronds aside. We were golden, no more secret worries about spoiled meat and sickened friends.

 

But as always, the proof is in the pudding. Almost imperceptibly, David’s face soured as he pulled the first fibers of turkey from the breast and put them to his mouth. I tasted, Ben tasted, Ed tasted, as did Jake then Dora, Rebecca and Barry. The verdict: Not so good. The turkey was dry, the marinade too vinegary for the mild flavor of the meat. We shredded it any way, this was all part of the adventure. The pork on the other hand was wondrous. The big cubes I had cut were tender, but not falling apart. They were moist, aromatic and delicious. Through the haze of its intoxicating fragrance we heaped the pork onto serving platters, warmed tortillas, and set out the side dishes for our Thanksgiving feast.

 

Thanksgiving Menu

 

Spicy Pecans (Rebecca)

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Buttermilk Biscuits with Smoked Salmon, Roquerfort Cream and Chives (Rebecca)

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Yellow-Eyed Bean and Nopalito Salad with Jalapeno Orange Vinaigrette (Ben)

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Avocado, Orange and Pomegranate Salad (Dorea and Ed)

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Guacamole (Janos)

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Tomatillo Salsa (Sue Ann)

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Cast-Iron Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Whole Roasted Garlic (Sue Ann)

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Arroz con Poblano y Crema (Dora)

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Jalapeno Cranberries (Dora)

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Corn and Chorizo Spoonbread (Rebecca)

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Black Beans (Janos)

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Cochinita Pibil (Group effort)

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Oaxacan Style Turkey (Unclaimed)

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Flour and Corn Tortillas (Anita Street Market)

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Pumpkin Pie (David)

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Ginger Pudding with Ginger Cookies (Dora)

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Love, Friendship and Gratitude (From all of us to all of you)

  

Cochinita Pibil Recipe:

 

Yield: About 30 portions

Ingredients:

20#             Pork shoulder, cut into 2” cubes

½ Cup         Achiote Paste1 TBSP         Cumin Seeds2 TBSP         Black peppercorns2 tsp            Whole cloves16                Allspice berries½ Cup         Kosher Salt4                 Habaneros, seeded and roughy chopped¼ Cup         Garlic, chopped

1 quart         Orange juice

1 Cup           Lemon juice

½ Cup         White vinegar

 

1 Quart        Water

 

6                 Banana leaves

 

Procedure:

1.     In a spice grinder, grind the cumin seeds, pepper corns, cloves and allspice berries.

2.     Whisk together all ingredients.

3.     Marinate the pork in marinade for 24 hours before roasting

4.     Line heavy duty roasting pan with banana leaves.

5.     Place the pork and marinade in the roasting pan and fold the overhanging leaves over the top of the pork

6.     Place the roasting pan on hot coals. Place a heavy lid that overlaps the each side of the pan by 2” on top over roast.

7.     Cover with dirt sealing well so that no air can seep in.

8.     Cook about 7 hours.