Janos/J Bar
      the Janos Blog

Late spring 2008

 

Dear Friends,

  

I know that, like me, all of you have been watching the headlines announcing rising petroleum, food and commodities prices, our weak dollar abroad, and the collapse of the housing market. Every week we read another report of impending recession, increased unemployment and uncertainty. Everyone I talk to in business, from doctors to retailers to restaurateurs, are being affected and trying to figure out how to cut back and adjust.

 

After 25 years of business here in Tucson I’ve learned a lot of lessons, the most important being to stay confident in the face of adversity, and to turn weakness into strength. That is exactly my plan for confronting the seemingly difficult times ahead.

 

Since we opened our doors downtown at the Stevens House in 1983 and through our move here to the Westin La Paloma 10 years ago you have relied upon us to celebrate your special occasions, for the romantic night out, the casual date at J BAR, or as a gentle respite with our Summer Music Series. Perhaps now, when things aren’t as good as we’d all like them to be, you need us more than ever. We need you too.

 

I’ve been asking myself what’s the best thing I can do for you this summer.

You’ve been getting part of the answer in our weekly e-blasts telling you about our Music Series, Summer Samplers, Ten Terrific Tastes, Drink Specials at J BAR and Wine Specials at Janos. Providing fun and delicious ways for you to get a night out at lower prices is an important part of the answer, so in addition to our Summer Menus we’ve significantly lowered menu prices.

 

The price discounting we’re doing takes place in a larger context and is a response not only to the economy but also addresses the positive potential of sourcing ingredients locally. Beginning before we served our first meal in our old home downtown, we started to source our ingredients locally and to inform our menus with a sense of place. Back then it was about creating a culinary identity and furthering a philosophy which places value on our cultural, agricultural and culinary heritage. Those goals remain the same and we are continuing the process of articulating a cuisine that is uniquely the flavor of Southern Arizona and Mexico. There are now new imperatives and new opportunities. As the price of petroleum continues to soar so do the costs of commercial fertilizers and pesticides as well as shipping costs for the products we get from regions beyond the southwest. Against this backdrop, the value of the local farmer comes into sharper focus. For years it’s been difficult for the local growers to compete with the large corporate farms with their genetically modified seeds, subsidies and super efficient transportation systems. Now the equation is beginning to change. The cost of fertilizers, pesticides and transportation are driving food prices ever higher and are combining with a myriad of economic forces with the net effect of shrinking disposable income. It is more important than ever for us to look nearby to source our menus. For us that means continuing to do what we do and to it better and more aggressively. It means turning that equation on its head and turning weakness into strength. Fortunately for you and for us, our strength and the source of our culinary identity has always been to tell the story of where we live through the foods we cook.

 

In year’s past we relied heavily on Francine Pearce to grow our local vegetables at Harlekin Garden just down the road from the small town of Arrivaca. Every year it was a struggle for Francine to make ends meet. While we’d buy everything we could from her, it was tough for her to get support from other restaurants or from individual customers. Back then local Farmer’s Market’s didn’t offer a viable market for Francine to sell her wonderful heirloom tomatoes and Japanese eggplant. Francine closed down her farm about three years ago and I can’t help thinking about her now as we start working with a new generation of gardeners and small producers. Now on our menus you’ll see names like Forever Yong Farms where John and Yong Reub have established their lifestyle growing delicious vegetables which they supply to Farmer’s Markets, organic markets and a couple of restaurants including our own. When you come in this summer you’ll taste their delicious artichokes, tender green beans, gorgeous opal basil and fresh Mrs. Burn’s Lemon Basil, one of the native basils collected and marketed by Native Seeds SEARCH. Stewart Loew and his family at Agua Linda Farms are building their expansive business just south of Tubac farming bio-dynamically on the family’s historic lands. Right now we’re cooking with their beets, turnips and peas. As the summer progresses we’ll work our way through their crops. When you see the name ‘The Chicken Ladies’ on our menus it refers to Jane Evans and Laurie Clark who are raising heirloom chickens and will soon be bringing us heirloom tomatoes they’re raising mid-town near Stone and Blacklidge.

 

This isn’t to say that the life of the local farmer is easy now. Far from it, but I think the time is fast approaching when we will value foods that are locally raised over those that are shipped in from far away. In southern Arizona we work with a number of organizations including Native Seeds SEARCH, the Santa Cruz Heritage Alliance, Slow Foods, The RAFT program and Sabores Sin Fronteras whose efforts are focused on promoting foods and flavors unique to our region.

 

So what does that mean when you come in for dinner or drinks this summer? First and foremost it means great food, lower prices and more local flavor. We’ll be changing our menus more frequently this summer, keeping pace with the harvest and constantly offering great new dishes for you to enjoy. 

 

No, we’re not going to do away with all the wonderful products we’re proud to bring in for you. We’ll still be offering exceptional seafood from sustainable sources, great lamb, beef and the luxury items that make dining out at Janos the most special experience in Arizona. But as the restaurant that has been defining “Arizona” cuisine from before we served our first meals in 1983, we are reasserting our commitment to local ingredients and local flavors and to all the good things that brings.

 

We are also reasserting our commitment to you. Janos and J BAR will continue to be the restaurants where you can rely on for great service, food and drink, and now, more than ever, where great value is as important as great flavor.

 

We will continue to send our eblast every week to let you know who’s playing and what we’re cooking and drinking. Log on to our website www.Janos.com for a more complete listing of our menus and activities.

 

As we celebrate our 25^th year serving you here’s a short list of reasons why you’ll want to punch your passport at Janos or J BAR this season:

 

• J BAR Summer Samplers Entrees  $12.95
• J BAR Weekly Drink Specials
• Summer Music Series Wednesday and Thursday nights at sunset (Friday and Saturday in September
• Janos Summer Sampler Entrees $19.95
• Janos Ten Terrific Tastes Menus (12 items over 4 courses) $50.00
• Janos Weekly Wine Specials
• Collect Stamps on your Summer Passport for free meals.
• Celebrate a special occasion with and we’ll give you a box of homemade chocolates and gift certificate for your return visit.

 

All the best,

 

Janos

 

Not everyone gets the same gifts. I don’t mean the Lexus wrapped in a bow, tickets to the Final Four, or a gift certificate to Target. This isn’t even about getting three meals a day. I’m talking about the basic gifts we take for granted. You know, like arms and legs that work right, a brain that’s wired correctly, organs that do their job. The basic of basics. The lowest common denominator. Health. This is about kids who don’t go to regular classes, they go to Special Ed. Special as in don’t take algebra, literature or chemistry. This is about kids for whom an accomplishment is learning to ride the bus, how to use the library, or how to do their wash at a laundromat. These aren’t the kids who grow up to be doctors, lawyers, policeman or beauticians. If they’re lucky they get a job greeting at Wal-Mart.

 

My buddy, Randy Spalding works with these kids. He’s their teacher. Along with Wendy Enriquez, John Davis and Belle Tallez-Peru he’s created a sanctuary in their classroom at Pueblo High School. It’s a place where the kids can be themselves. In many ways they’re not so different from you and me or the kids down the hall in the computer lab. They care about how they look, what they wear, what’s hip and what’s not. They know the words to rap songs; they’ve got crushes, girlfriends and boyfriends. To each other they’re the same and their classroom is a safe place for them. Here they don’t get picked on by bigger and stronger kids, taken advantage of, ridiculed or have to listen to the disappointment, sadness and anger of parents who are themselves struggling just to make it through life and never bargained on having a child who’s future might seem more hopeless than their own.

 

Randy and his co-teachers help make their lives actually Special. Special as in teaching them about beauty and appreciation. Special as in caring enough about them to hold them accountable.  Special as in letting them know that they mean something to someone.

 

These are kids whose feelings and emotions are immediate. Their affection is shown in a hug that doesn’t want to quit, their joy is a smile that comes quickly and a cheer that’s loud and often.  Their anger also comes quickly, and can be noisy and violent. The inner controls just aren’t there. That can be good and bad. Disruption is the norm in their classroom. It comes in the form of tears of joy and tears of rage. It comes in violent outbursts and police visits.

 

I get to visit the classroom on the best day of the year, at least for me. I get to preside over Janos Southside. This is the day when their classroom becomes my restaurant.  All the teachers and administrators come to lunch. Coaches bring their teams. The Student Council joins us and so do the cheerleaders. The Principal comes. We get the Superintendent and the President of Board of Education. Congressman Grijalva comes when he’s in town. The media class sets up cameras. This is the real deal.

 

You should see this staff. My Maitre d’s is wearing a tuxedo. My cooks are dressed in chef’s coats. Everyone in the class has a job. There are waiters in white shirts and bow-ties. We’ve got bussers, cashiers and drink vendors. Everyone works at their level of ability. And they better be ready because we’ll serve 220 people starting right at 10:20 with the first seating. And they are ready. The tables have color coordinated placemats, flowers and decorations the kids have made. This year’s theme is the rainforest so there are green leaves cut from construction paper covering the ceiling. Vines climb poles. It’s a green classroom. Around the outside of the room are bulletin boards filled with pictures from lunches past. There are pictures of the staff, the students and our guests. Pictures of people happy and proud.

 

The kids have been practicing for this day for weeks. The waiters have colored bands on their wrists coordinated with the placemats on the tables so they know where to go. They also know to serve from the left and clear from the right. The cooks are at the ready behind chafing dishes filled with creamy orzo, ratatouille, rosemary and garlic roasted chicken breasts and pesto Genovese.  Plastic silverware is ready to go, wrapped in paper napkin rings with the Janos Southside logo. The menus are on the tables and there are signs out front greeting our guests. Petey’s there too with a big grin and a hug, checking names off the reservation list  as the guests come in.

 

Randy and his team have created a team for me. And boy does this team hum. Guests sit and within moments they have their lunch, their drink and soon enough their bill. The tables are turning. Sometimes four times in two hours. They’re turning metaphorically too. Kids who no one expects much from are serving the rest of the school. The meek have inherited the classroom and turned it into a restaurant.

 

We charge $5.00 a person for the lunch. All the money stays in the classroom and the kids split the tips.  Some of our guests say they come because it’s the best deal in town and it really is. But that’s not the reason they’re here. They’re here because this is truly a joyous place to be. The enthusiasm of these almost forgotten kids is contagious. Here the kids who didn’t get the gifts everyone else got, give the best gifts of all. They give the gifts of love and joy.  Everyone’s smiling. Everyone’s happy.

   

 

 

 

 

Unencumbered by the limitations of a lack of wood, fire restrictions, or marshmallow coals, building a pit fire provides an excuse to build a really big fire. In the darkness of pre-dawn we did just that. Split logs of pine were kindling for the bigger, hotter, and slower burning hunks of mesquite that had been seasoning in our yard for the past year.  As the fire burned hotter and higher we tossed bigger and knottier limbs onto the conflagration and then we stopped. In two hours the wood had burned to coals forming a base of embers 2-3 inches deep over the expanse of fire bricks.  The two roasters, both lined with banana leaves one holding the cochinita pibil, the other the Oaxacan style marinated turkey went  bubbling and  gurgling into the pit as cold metal hit hot coals where they were entombed under 80 pounds of steel plate and a couple hundred pounds of dirt.

 

Then we let go. Seven hours in the pit, roasting, tenderizing, collagen breaking down, fat melting into moist meat, marinades mellowing as the flavors developed. I could taste it all in my mind as we went about the chores of a day that, against forecast, had turned bright and warm. We laughed and joked through our mis en place, Rebecca and her two pit boys as we moved and set tables, prepared our side dishes, adjusted the linen, put out candles and glittering sugared fruit for decoration, placed the wine glasses and silverware and tidied up the house.   

 

By 2:00 we were set for our guests to arrive. By 3:15, having allowed ample time for drinks and to build the tension, we proceeded to exhume. Fortified by shots of the warm Hornitos that we had buried along with the pig and turkey  the dirt was cleared, steel plate swept clean and removed. Through all of this I was watching for tell-tale signs of success or failure. That the Hornitos was warm was the first indication that our fire had endured, but the steel plate was not nearly as hot as I expected. I was nervous when we pulled the roasters and tore aside the top seal of foil we had put in place as one more shield against potential sifting dirt. The banana leaves were hot and fragrant, steam escaped as we pulled the fronds aside. We were golden, no more secret worries about spoiled meat and sickened friends.

 

But as always, the proof is in the pudding. Almost imperceptibly, David’s face soured as he pulled the first fibers of turkey from the breast and put them to his mouth. I tasted, Ben tasted, Ed tasted, as did Jake then Dora, Rebecca and Barry. The verdict: Not so good. The turkey was dry, the marinade too vinegary for the mild flavor of the meat. We shredded it any way, this was all part of the adventure. The pork on the other hand was wondrous. The big cubes I had cut were tender, but not falling apart. They were moist, aromatic and delicious. Through the haze of its intoxicating fragrance we heaped the pork onto serving platters, warmed tortillas, and set out the side dishes for our Thanksgiving feast.

 

Thanksgiving Menu

 

Spicy Pecans (Rebecca)

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Buttermilk Biscuits with Smoked Salmon, Roquerfort Cream and Chives (Rebecca)

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Yellow-Eyed Bean and Nopalito Salad with Jalapeno Orange Vinaigrette (Ben)

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Avocado, Orange and Pomegranate Salad (Dorea and Ed)

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Guacamole (Janos)

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Tomatillo Salsa (Sue Ann)

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Cast-Iron Roasted Brussel Sprouts with Whole Roasted Garlic (Sue Ann)

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Arroz con Poblano y Crema (Dora)

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Jalapeno Cranberries (Dora)

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Corn and Chorizo Spoonbread (Rebecca)

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Black Beans (Janos)

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Cochinita Pibil (Group effort)

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Oaxacan Style Turkey (Unclaimed)

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Flour and Corn Tortillas (Anita Street Market)

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Pumpkin Pie (David)

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Ginger Pudding with Ginger Cookies (Dora)

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Love, Friendship and Gratitude (From all of us to all of you)

  

Cochinita Pibil Recipe:

 

Yield: About 30 portions

Ingredients:

20#             Pork shoulder, cut into 2” cubes

½ Cup         Achiote Paste1 TBSP         Cumin Seeds2 TBSP         Black peppercorns2 tsp            Whole cloves16                Allspice berries½ Cup         Kosher Salt4                 Habaneros, seeded and roughy chopped¼ Cup         Garlic, chopped

1 quart         Orange juice

1 Cup           Lemon juice

½ Cup         White vinegar

 

1 Quart        Water

 

6                 Banana leaves

 

Procedure:

1.     In a spice grinder, grind the cumin seeds, pepper corns, cloves and allspice berries.

2.     Whisk together all ingredients.

3.     Marinate the pork in marinade for 24 hours before roasting

4.     Line heavy duty roasting pan with banana leaves.

5.     Place the pork and marinade in the roasting pan and fold the overhanging leaves over the top of the pork

6.     Place the roasting pan on hot coals. Place a heavy lid that overlaps the each side of the pan by 2” on top over roast.

7.     Cover with dirt sealing well so that no air can seep in.

8.     Cook about 7 hours.

   

The pork dilemma is still an issue. I could find no local pork for Thanksgiving so I’m cheating a little by going to my commercial broker, Jet-Fresh who will bring in some organic, free-range pork from California. We’ve now broken the 200 mile barrier. What’ll be next? Does it count that the wines will come from Spain?

I went out to measure the pit this morning. It’s 30% too small. I feel like James Gardner must have felt in The Great Escape when the tunnel came up short of tree line. At least in my case I’ve got a little time to spare. So out came the pick and shovel.

Bad news about the pig today.  Seem’s Georges neighbor, Dennis Morney sent two goats, several head of cattle and a pig to the University Extension for butchering. Somehow they misplaced the pig. He gave me the name of a friend, June Hewitt who lives in Bisbee and had sold some stock to him.  “They’ve got good genes.” He said. “Sorry I’ve sold all my weaners.” June let me know in her captivating British accent. “It’s kind of odd,” she said “People want to buy the pigs before they’re even conceived. If you like, I’ll raise one for you.” “How long?” I wanted to know. “About 6 months.”  I guess we started a little late. I’ll make some more calls tomorrow.

 

Ben, after reading Gary Nabhan’s book Coming Home to Eat: The Politics and Pleasures of Local Foods in which Gary describes a year eating only foods produced within a 200 mile radius of his Tucson home, decided we needed a change in our Thanksgiving tradition. “This year, let’s do something different, something revolutionary.” Ben popped the idea to Rebecca and me. “Forget the normal family Thanksgiving with all the same stuff and wasting the beautiful day watching a stupid football game. Let’s get a local turkey, we’ll dig a pit, have a bunch of friends over, and use the foods from around here.”

Sounded pretty reasonable to us (all but the football part anyway). We figured the hardest part would be breaking the news to Rebecca’s sister who loves holding the traditional celebration at her home here in Tucson. Barbie took the news well, probably figuring “What a bunch of nuts. They’ll get it out of their system.” and decided that just because the Wilder’s wanted to become one with the land was no reason to disrupt the rest of the family.

That being settled, it was time to start planning. Figuring that there’s no success like excess we decided to do both turkey and pork. We’ll prepare the turkey Oaxacan style and make Cochinita Pibil with the pig. I’ve researched both of these dishes and developed the recipes for them we use at the restaurant. I’ve participated in making (my job was eating) lamb barbacoa in Oaxaca but have never pit roasted myself. In preparation, Ben put on Rick Bayless’ DVD from his TV show, Mexico, One Plate at Time and we watched as Rick and his daughter, Lanie, dug a pit, lined it with bricks, built a fire, which reduced to coals, marinated and roasted a pig, and held a party for about 20 of their friends in half an hour. How hard could it be?

First thing you have to understand is, I’m not a project guy. No one has ever called me “handy”. If something needs work around the house either Rebecca does it, we hire someone, or more likely, it doesn’t get done.

So let’s start with the pit. It’s got to be 46 inches long, 36” wide and about 12” deep to hold the brick lining, the coals and the two large roasters we’d need. “I really want to be part of this.” Ben insisted. Then came the GRE test, then the trip to the Pinacates with one of his professors, then complications with my schedule, and there I was in the yard with a pick and shovel expanding our very small fire pit to the required dimensions. I’m not whining, but our soil is nothing like the rich, well-worked soil that yielded so easily to Rick’s shovel in his Chicago backyard. Ours is full of rocks and caliche. When I put my shovel to the earth sparks fly.

Let’s talk about bricks. You can’t use regular bricks and adobe won’t work, so soon I was off to the brickyard and, with the shocks and springs sagging in my station wagon, brought home a load of fire bricks. I figured about 10 trips in Ben’s old wagon and I’d have the bricks transferred to the fire pit. That worked for one load until Rebecca let me know “You can’t pull the wagon over the winter lawn we just planted.” OK, what’s wrong with this picture? Here we are in the desert, trying to cook locally and we have a lawn? Not only that, but I got caught in the sprinklers.

Plan B: portage around the lawn and up the steps to pit. Ten trips became 60. More good exercise.

Let’s talk about turkeys. We all know that turkeys are now a mass-produced commodity from a single gene pool raised to grow quickly with huge breasts. They can barely move around, cannot procreate and are generally pumped full of hormones and antibiotics. They also cost about .69 a pound at the local supermarket. My baby’s an organically raised Double Breasted (can you get a single breasted?) Bronze. A 23.6 pounder at four bucks a pound. George Wykoff raised it in Willcox, about 60 miles south of us. My first call to George: “Can’t hear you, I’m in the car and can’t write anything down. You know I’m sixty. Call my mother- in- law she’ll take down your name.” He gave me the number. I called his mother in law who took down my name and number. The next day I called George back: “I can’t hear you, I’m on the tractor in the garlic field. My wife we’ll bring you the turkey. I’ll get you my neighbors number, he just butchered some pigs.” I was on the right track. Local turkey, local pigs. This is going to be out of control!

Back to the pit. “Ben, you know we’ll need a lot of dirt to seal the pit airtight once we put the pans in. I think I’ll go buy some dirt.” Sounded reasonable to me, particularly since I was the guy doing the digging. “You gotta be kidding dad. We’re digging a pit, getting local turkey and pig and you’re going to buy the dirt? That’s not happening.” I put Ben in charge of the dirt.

Now there’s the piece about the lid for the roasters, which of course do not come with their own. Rick and Lanie had a gorgeous steel plate with handles on it. In Oaxaca they’d used corrugated tin. I went to my buddy Jose, a blacksmith and welder who’s been fixing and making me things for the last 25 years and asked his advice. “Don’t start drinking too early,” he said “we pit roasted for my wedding and were drunk by the time the meat was done” he now has 5 kids, 2 out on their own. Are you going to wrap it in banana leaves?” He’s making us a lid out of 3/8” reclaimed metal. It’ll weigh about 60 pounds. I think I see more good exercise coming.